You probably like to look at these pictures too.
- Turn loose the org. Nuts
(if they get stuck, stop at once, take a blade saw and a chisel)
- Loosen the screw on the collector/pipe connection
- best also on the interference interface
(making it easier to take off the exhaust pipes
- take off the exhaust pipes
- take off (gasket) rings (Remember layout !! for reassembly!! using new ones is sometimes a good idea)
- take off the nut from the pipe
- Dip over the flange (without threads) to the pipes
- Assemble the gasket/clamp rings (only one at the R45/65)
- assemble the threaded semi cups (always 1x "I" and "V" marked together) on the exhaust port so it's in a line with the front line of the stub and fix it with the screws (M6x25) but do not tighten yet
- fix the mating flange with screws (M6x30) and the washers to the clamp flange
still do not tighten yet
- Rotate the hole package to a position that you can reach al screws easily.
Now tighten the threaded semi cups to the exhaust stub. (Please consider torque for M6 screws)
- Now tighten the mating flange equally but not too tight! Do not tilt.
The parts are from excellent and strong aluminum (AlZnMgCu1,5 - colorless anodized) and 12mm thick, but there's no need to squeez them too tight. It's enough when there is no leak.
If it should come loose, you can tighten it a little more with just an allen key in seconds.
- I don't want to patronize you about the anti-seize you like to use at least for the screws, but you should use one at all! I preferr aluminum-, graphit- oder ceramik-paste /-spray. But who likes to use copper paste, why not. Just because there are some newer materials out there it does not say that the older ones didn't do the job.
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Inh. Walter Price