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Boxer Motor


You probably like to look at these pictures too.

  1. Turn loose the org. Nuts
    (if they get stuck, stop at once, take a blade saw and a chisel)

  2. Loosen the screw on the collector/pipe connection

  3. best also on the interference interface
    (making it easier to take off the exhaust pipes

  4. take off the exhaust pipes

  5. take off (gasket) rings (Remember layout !! for reassembly!! using new ones is sometimes a good idea)

  6. take off the nut from the pipe

  7. Dip over the flange (without threads) to the pipes

  8. Assemble the gasket/clamp rings (only one at the R45/65)

  9. assemble the threaded semi cups (always 1x "I" and "V" marked together) on the exhaust port so it's in a line with the front line of the stub and fix it with the screws (M6x25) but do not tighten yet

  10. fix the mating flange with screws (M6x30) and the washers to the clamp flange
    still do not tighten yet

  11. Rotate the hole package to a position that you can reach al screws easily.
    Now tighten the threaded semi cups to the exhaust stub. (Please consider torque for M6 screws)

  12. Now tighten the mating flange equally but not too tight! Do not tilt.
    The parts are from excellent and strong aluminum (AlZnMgCu1,5 - colorless anodized) and 12mm thick, but there's no need to squeez them too tight. It's enough when there is no leak.
    If it should come loose, you can tighten it a little more with just an allen key in seconds.

  13. I don't want to patronize you about the anti-seize you like to use at least for the screws, but you should use one at all! I preferr aluminum-, graphit- oder ceramik-paste /-spray. But who likes to use copper paste, why not. Just because there are some newer materials out there it does not say that the older ones didn't do the job.
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